How Irish Coffee Became So Popular In The US
Irish coffee, which likely began as a piping hot pick-me-up for freezing, exhausted travelers in a 1940s Irish airport, has now become an iconic drink. The Irish coffee is so famous today that it even gets its own holiday every January 25. Though the debate continues over which establishment introduced it first, Irish chef Joe Sheridan is often credited with creating the beverage while working at the small Foynes Airport. Back then, planes couldn't manage full transatlantic trips, so Ireland was a convenient place for fueling stopovers. When America-bound travelers were stranded at Foynes during a storm, Sheridan reportedly came up with the idea to add Irish whiskey, sugar, and a dollop of cream to hot coffee and offer a bit of comfort in a glass.
The drink caught on quickly with travelers making long journeys across the Atlantic, but it might have stayed on the Emerald Isle if not for a certain Pulitzer Prize–winning author. Stanton Delaplane was a travel writer for the San Francisco Chronicle who encountered the drink in the 1950s and became determined to recreate it back home. He brought the idea to Jack Koeppler, owner of the Buena Vista in San Francisco, a working-class bar near the city's cable car line. But it wasn't easy going.
As Tullamore Dew ambassador and Irish native Kevin Pigott explains, "The heart of Irish coffee is precision and there are a few moving parts that can potentially lead you astray during the process," noting that "a true temperature contrast of hot coffee and cold cream really make the drink pop." Then, there's the matter of the heavy cream. Koeppler and Delaplane tried everything, including the right type of whiskey — not whisky, thanks — but they couldn't get the cream to float properly. Another trip would be in order before Irish coffee became an American favorite.
Irish coffee was a regional curiosity at first
After weeks of experimentation, Koeppler flew to Ireland to learn firsthand, but he still couldn't get the cream to float until dairy farmer (and future mayor of San Francisco) George Christopher stepped in. After a few hangover-inducing tests, they discovered the cream would float if aged and whipped to a precise consistency. Kevin Pigott explains part of the trick: "The secret to getting the beautiful, layered effect for the cream is twofold." He recommends a heavy cream with at least 35% fat content and chilling it before gently shaking. Whatever you do, don't use a heavy cream substitute. Pigott gravely explains that "If you use cream from a can, someone in Ireland cries without understanding why. Our spidey senses are tingling that something wrong is happening."
As more Americans began to travel and bring word of the beverage, the Irish coffee became less a novelty and more a sophisticated drink. The boozy coffee has also benefited from the American love of St. Patrick's Day celebrations and pub culture. Today, the Buena Vista is still renowned for its part in cocktail history. It's estimated it serves up to 2,000 Irish coffees every day and goes through more than 500 bottles of Tullamore Dew whiskey every week. To watch its skilled bartenders make a batch is truly a performance. Dozens of glasses are lined up on the counter in an assembly line, while one bartender pours ingredients seamlessly from cup to cup. If you ever need another good use for leftover coffee, this cocktail is certainly one of them.