The Vintage Steakhouse Side Dish That Predates The Civil War

Eating out at a good steakhouse is most always a wonderful experience. While the tender, juicy steaks are nothing to scoff at, half the enjoyment is the array of side dishes that go with them. One steakhouse side surprisingly has origins past even the American Civil War and is now known as Delmonico potatoes.

Essentially, Delmonico potatoes (sometimes referred to a potatoes Delmonico) is a potato casserole made with cheese and cream. It's similar to potatoes au gratin, but the potatoes are cubed instead of sliced. Like many steakhouse sides, it can be either a full meal or a complement to another dish. It's easy to make at home if you so wish, though it's not commonly featured on modern restaurant menus.

Delmonico potatoes is named for the restaurant where it originated – Delmonico's in New York City. The restaurant was established in 1837, approximately 36 years before the start of the Civil War in 1861. While it's not the oldest restaurant in America (that honor belongs to the White Horse Tavern, one of the oldest restaurants in the world), it is widely acknowledged as America's first-ever fine dining establishment. Delmonico potatoes appeared on the restaurant's menu sometime around 1838, though it's unknown exactly who invented it. The recipe is commonly attributed to Alessandro Filippini, who featured it in his cookbook published in 1890, though it's not confirmed whether or not he was truly the one to first come up with the dish.

Recipes for Delmonico potatoes vary widely today, complicated further by the fact that there's no official record of the dish as it first appeared in the 1830s at Delmonico's. Many cookbooks from the late 19th century offer recipes, but they also deviate quite a lot from one another. Even one of the supposed creators, Alessandro Filippini, published multiple versions of the basic dish with different names.

The basic recipe, at least, is mostly agreed upon. Potatoes (typically but not always diced) are mixed with a cheese sauce made of butter, onions, heavy cream, shredded cheese, and your choice of seasonings. The whole thing is covered with more shredded cheese and then broiled in an oven.

Delmonico's restaurant is still open today, though it doesn't currently serve a dish called Delmonico potatoes. It does have a potato side dish, but that is billed simply as hash browns and doesn't really share the same characteristics as the historic side. If you still choose to visit the historic steakhouse in New York City, be aware that it does have a smart casual dress code, and, while ordering, be sure to avoid using trendy steakhouse terms like plus or minus.