Anthony Bourdain's All-Time Favorite Breakfast Came From This Iconic New York Deli

Anthony Bourdain had big opinions — not a surprise; the man had big opinions on everything – when it came to breakfast. Like many aspects of this revered chef-author's philosophy, his feelings about the first meal of the day drew from elements of both haute cuisine and the grub of the hoi polloi. His tips for restaurant-quality scrambled eggs came from years of working the brunch line at Les Halles, but he felt the Waffle House chain was better than fine dining. Another humble breakfast that lit him up? A smoked sturgeon platter with a side of lox scrambled eggs from Barney Greengrass in New York City, also known as "The Sturgeon King."

In a clip from "A Cook's Tour" (seen on YouTube), Bourdain is in his element, schlepping the streets of the Big Apple. Barney Greengrass is an unpretentious Jewish deli with a 100+ year history, and its fame came from smoked fish, Bourdain explains. He repeatedly refers to his breakfast of choice as some of the best food in the world. The sturgeon platter is big enough to feed at least three people, decked with fresh veg and downy pillows of flaky whitefish, which Bourdain ate with cream cheese on a plain bagel ... the only kind of bagel meriting attention, in his view. The eggs are scrambled with rosy pink chunks of Nova Scotia salmon and slivered caramelized onions. Bourdain took his breakfast with a copy of "The New York Times," and declared himself in a bad mood since the Yankees lost. On the way out, he grabbed a pound of chopped liver to go. 

The love between Barney Greengrass and Bourdain was mutual. When the writer died, the deli reserved a table with empty chairs and set it with his favorite meal in his memory.

Anthony Bourdain hated silly food trends, which is probably part of the reason that a timeless deli like Barney Greengrass appealed so much to his tastes. Its green awnings are unfussy and weather-beaten, and, inside, it looks like any other working-class deli in the city. According to glowing Yelp reviews, people line up down the block on weekends to get their fish and bagels. While some New York delis are known for their roast beef — and Barney Greengrass does offer meats — the smoked fish is the big draw. The thick scent of the fish greets you when you enter through the front door, and it clings to your clothing when you leave. Bring your wallet and deep pockets, because the fish doesn't come cheap — Bourdain's sturgeon platter runs north of $50 as of this writing, and caviar presentations hit triple digits. Still, generations of satisfied customers will agree that Barney Greengrass is a worthwhile indulgence. 

"Paid $27 for an open face bagel sandwich. Worth EVERY PENNYYYY!" one Yelp customer raved. "Place was clean and staff was very attentive. There was a cozy family atmosphere inside." Another five-star review gushed: "We were traveling with a local who insisted we try Barney Greengrass, so we went for breakfast — and now I get why this place is such a classic," going on to praise the bialys and latkes. "A historic Jewish deli on the UWS known for their smoked fish and bagels [...] not a cheap place for open bagels (~50 for two). But wow, somehow they were the best bagel and lox I've had," another reviewer summarized.